A Complete Guide To Mango Trees: Planting, Watering, Fertilizing & Harvest

Have you been thinking about growing your own mango tree? Awesome! 

Imagine how proud you'll feel when your tree becomes the center of attention in the neighborhood, offering plenty of fresh, delicious fruits.

Growing mango trees might sound challenging, but it's completely doable with patience and the right know-how.

This blog post is called the “complete guide” for a reason. It contains ALL you need to know about growing mango trees from scratch, even with zero experience. 

We’ve kept it practical and focused on the most important steps. If you’re short on time, here’s a quick summary to get you started:

Growing Mango Trees: Key Takeaways

• Mango trees come in many varieties, like Alphonso, Kesar, and Pinapple Princess The variant you choose to grow depends on your preference for flavors and textures.

• You can choose to grow from seeds or use a grafted mango cultivar. We recommend the latter since they begin producing fruit within 2-3 years, and you know what fruit you’re getting. 

• Mango trees thrive in environments where humidity consistently exceeds 50% and receive full sun (6+ hours/day). They also thrive in sandy-loam soils that are well-draining.  Water every 1-2 weeks for the first few years.

• Common issues include pests like aphids and mealybugs or fungal diseases like anthracnose, which can be managed with water jets, insecticides, or prunning.

• You can buy Fruit Cocktail or Alphonso Mango Tree from PrivacyShrub. We carry our items year-round, delivering them to your home for free. 

There is a LOT to learn in this guide, especially if you’re new to growing tropical trees in your garden. 

To make it easier, we’ve divided this blog post into seven chapters, giving you a clearer idea of where to look if you only want particular information about cultivating mango trees. 

CHAPTER 1: Understanding Mango Trees (Botanical Details)

CHAPTER 2: Choosing a Mango Cultivar to Grow

CHAPTER 3: Where and When to Grow Mango Trees

CHAPTER 4: How To Plant Mango Seeds (Step-by-step Guide)

CHAPTER 5: Nurturing Mango Trees (Watering, Fertilizing, Soil Condition, etc)

CHAPTER 6: Common Pests and Diseases 

CHAPTER 7: Harvesting Mango Fruits and Storage

Let’s now go into the full details. 

CHAPTER 1: Understanding Mango Trees (Botanical Details)

CHAPTER 2: Choosing a Mango Cultivar to Grow

Mango trees come in many varieties, each producing fruit with its unique taste and texture. 

Before choosing a variety, you need to decide whether to grow mangoes from seeds or a grafted mango tree.

Growing Mangoes from Seeds

If you’re starting with seeds, here are two key things to know:

• Mango trees grown from seeds take 5-8 years to produce fruit.

• Mango seeds can be monoembryonic or polyembryonic.

Monoembryonic seeds grow one seedling from cross-pollination, meaning the new tree won’t be the same as the parent tree. 

For example, if you plant a seed from an Angie Mango, the tree won’t grow Angie Mangoes. Instead, you’ll get a new type of mango that may taste better or worse than Angie.

Polyembryonic seeds, on the other hand, produce multiple seedlings. Most of these seedlings are clones of the parent tree and will grow the same type of mango as the original. 

For example, if you plant a Coconut Cream Mango seed, three out of four seedlings will grow Coconut Cream Mangoes, while the fourth will be different because of cross-pollination.

To figure out which seedlings are clones, separate them and let them grow for a few months. Compare their growth, leaves, and other features to see which look alike (the clones) and which one looks different.

Growing Grafted Mango Trees

Grafted mango trees are usually the better choice. They grow faster and start producing fruit within 2-3 years. Plus, you know exactly what variety of mango you’re getting.

When buying a grafted mango tree, you can choose based on:

• Season: For example, Angie Mangoes ripen in April-May, while Lancetilla Mangoes ripen later (July-September).

• Tree Size: Small varieties include Angie, Neelum, and Honey Kiss. Larger ones include Lancetilla and Lemon Zest. Remember that even “dwarf” varieties can grow large over time—they just grow more slowly.

Some true dwarf varieties include Julie, Pickering, Dwarf Hawaiian, and Saigon.

At Privacy Shrub, we offer the popular Alphonso Mango, an Indian flavor variety known for its golden-green fruit and sweet, mild flavor.

CHAPTER 3: Where and When to Grow Mango Trees

Mango trees grow best in warm, tropical or subtropical climates. 

They need lots of sunlight, well-drained soil, and protection from strong winds. 

I’d really like to be more specific about this aspect because when we move into the steps of planting a mango seed (next chapter), you’ll need to take the information below to heart: 

Finding the Right Spot for a Mango Tree

When deciding where to plant a mango tree, keep these four things in mind:

About the space, some people suggest 8 feet; others say 10 or even 16 feet. The truth is, it depends on a few things. 

What’s your goal for growing mango trees? And what type of mango are you planting? How often you fertilize and prune the tree will also determine the exact spacing to use. 

Mango trees shouldn’t be planted in places that get regular frost.

Climate and Mango Varieties

While mango trees can grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 9–11, success depends on the specific climate of your area—mango trees like humidity above 50%.

 You'll need a vigorous mango variety if you live in a cooler, drier area like a Mediterranean climate. 

However, in tropical areas with warm and humid weather, smaller or slower-growing varieties may thrive.

Before we move on, the soil of the location also matters. 

Mango trees grow best in sandy-loam soil that drains well. While mango trees can handle occasional flooding, they don’t like sitting in water for too long. Overwatering can lead to root rot.

QUICK TIP: 

• For soil pH, mango trees prefer levels between 5.5 and 7.5 If the soil is too alkaline, you can lower the pH using sulfur. If the soil is too acidic, you can raise the pH using lime.

Period of the Year to Grow Mango Trees

It's a good idea to plant them in the warmer months, like spring or early summer.

CHAPTER 4: How To Plant Mango Seeds (Step-by-step Guide)

Now that you have ticked the right boxes on when and where to plant the mango tree, you start by digging a hole. But there are things you need to keep in mind. 

Step 1. Dig the Right Hole

Dig a hole about 1.5 to 3 times wider than the tree’s root ball, but not too deep. 

Make sure the top of the root ball sits slightly (½–1 inch) above ground level when you place the tree in the hole. 

This prevents water from pooling around the roots. Mango trees don’t like sitting in wet soil.

Step 2: Clear the Area

Remove any grass or weeds within 2–3 feet of the hole. 

This keeps other plants from stealing water and nutrients from the young tree. 

It also protects the trunk from being damaged during landscaping.

Step 3. Prepare the Tree for Planting

Check the roots. If the tree was recently moved to a larger pot, give it more time to grow strong roots before planting. This is because the root ball could have lost some structure during its most recent transplanting.

If the roots are circling inside the pot, trim them gently with clean pruning shears to help them spread out after planting.

Sometimes, you may even need to prune the tree’s top to encourage healthy growth and a balanced shape.

Step 4: Place the Mango Tree in the Hole

Once the tree is ready, place it in the hole with the graft facing north. 

The graft is the part where the tree is joined to the rootstock, and it’s the weakest part of the tree. Facing it north protects the graft from excessive sun exposure, which could burn it.

After placing the tree in the hole, make sure it stands straight. 

Fill the hole with the original soil, gently pressing it down. Don’t compact the soil too much—the roots still need air.

After planting, use a stick to go around the root ball and remove any air pockets. These can prevent water from reaching the roots.

Step 5: Add Compost & Mulch

Once the tree is planted, spread a layer of compost around the base and leave about 6 inches from the trunk. 

Compost provides essential nutrients for the tree’s roots. Then, cover the compost with a few inches of mulch. Why should you do this? 

The goal is to retain moisture in the soil and keep the roots cool. As a plus, it helps to reduce the growth of weeds.

Mulch also helps create a small berm (a mound) around the tree that makes watering easier. 

This will allow you to deep water your tree, ensuring the roots get plenty of moisture.

Step 6: Water the Tree

Now it’s time to water your mango tree. 

Use the mulch basin to pour water into the soil slowly. Repeat this process 3-5 times to make sure the water soaks deep into the ground.

It’s better to plant a smaller mango tree because it needs less water to get established. 

If you’re planting during a rainy season, the soil around the tree will naturally get enough water. However, be careful not to directly water the tree with a hose, as this can damage the root ball. 

One More Thing About Transplanting…

Avoid transplanting mango trees between November and March. During these months, there is less rain, and temperatures can drop to the 50s, which can stress the tree even more.

It’s better to transplant your mango tree around April to October, during the rainy season. 

This period is ideal because the afternoon thunderstorms help keep the soil moist, and the warmer weather reduces the shock the tree experiences as it adjusts to its new location.

For the best results, prune the tree’s roots over a few months before transplanting. 

If you need to move the tree immediately (which is riskier), you should trim some of the canopy a month before transplanting. 

This helps reduce transplant shock, as the tree will struggle to support its full canopy with fewer roots.

Ideally, the entire root system should be moved without disturbing the roots, but it will be challenging if you’re working with larger trees without special equipment.

After transplanting, make sure the tree gets plenty of water to help it settle into its new spot. Once the tree begins to grow new leaves, you can reduce watering.

CHAPTER 5: Nurturing Mango Trees

When nurturing mango trees, the focus is on all the elements that constitute ideal growing conditions.

 This includes watering, fertilizers, temperature, and of course, the soil condition. 

Watering

For newly planted mango trees, water them twice a week for the first two months. After that, reduce it to once a week for the next two months. 

When the tree starts growing new leaves, it’s considered established. However, young mango trees still need water every 1–2 weeks for the first few years, especially in areas with little rain or drought.

A simple way to check if your mango tree needs water is to push your finger a few inches into the soil. If it feels damp, the tree doesn’t need more water.

QUICK TIP: 

• Instead of using your hands, a moisture meter can help you check the soil’s water level.

Mango trees can also show signs of water problems. 

For example, if they get too much water (a common issue), the tips of their leaves may look burnt, with a dark black line separating the dried tip from the healthy green part of the leaf.

That’s overwatering. But underwatering is also a problem. The sign is usually wilted or droopy leaves, dry soil, and brittle stems.

Nutrients and fertilizers

Don’t fertilize newly planted trees. Begin fertilizing once the tree is established, usually in the fall (for flowering) and spring (for fruit quality). 

QUICK TIPS: 

• If you buy a mango tree from Privacy Shrub, it would likely have been fertilized by the grower. Wait 4-6 weeks before fertilizing again to avoid stressing the young tree.

After the first year of growing your mango tree, switch to a fertilizer formulated for fruit trees, which will provide the nutrients necessary for flower and fruit production.

This part is even easier because there are so many fertilizer products available in local garden stores, particularly for tropical plants like Mango trees. You’ll have to read the label and follow the instructions. 

But I’d really want to emphasize one aspect: when selecting a fertilizer, look beyond the basic NPK numbers (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium). 

A good fertilizer should also include secondary nutrients like calcium, magnesium, sulfur, and micronutrients like boron, zinc, and manganese. 

These minor nutrients are often lacking in certain soils and are crucial for healthy mango trees.

Apply fertilizer every 6-8 weeks during the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilization when the tree goes dormant in the fall and winter months.

Above all, follow the fertilizer label for proper application no matter what you do. 

QUICK TIP:

• Always water your mango Tree thoroughly before applying fertilizer. This helps prevent root burn.

Temperature

Young mango trees need extra care and protection from cold weather. Avoid planting them in areas where freezing temperatures happen regularly. 

Meanwhile, mature mango trees can handle temperatures as low as 25°F for a few hours, though their leaves and small branches may suffer damage. 

Young trees, however, are much more sensitive and can be killed at temperatures between 29°F and 30°F.

What About Pruning Mango Trees? 

Pruning mango trees depends on what you want: smaller trees, better fruit production, or just a nice look. 

Don’t worry if you’re new to pruning; mango trees are tough and can handle it. Regular pruning helps them grow better and keeps diseases away.

HERE’S WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW FIRST:

• You can remove 25–30% of a mango tree’s canopy without affecting next year’s fruiting.

• Don’t aim for a vase-like shape like apple or peach trees; mango trees thrive with a fuller canopy.

• If you’re nervous about cutting too much, remember that mango trees are resilient and bounce back quickly.

• Always wear gloves and long sleeves when pruning. Mango sap contains urushiol, the same substance in poison ivy, which can irritate your skin.

I like to think of three approaches when pruning a mango tree to achieve different objectives.  These are shaping, tipping, or removing wood. 

SHAPING MANGO TREE

Why shape? To create a healthy canopy for aesthetics and make the tree easier to manage. Shaping the tree reduces fungal diseases and eliminates the need for frequent spraying.

• Remove branches growing toward the middle of the canopy to improve airflow and sunlight.

• Cut out dead, diseased, or very low branches (below 3 feet) to prevent fruit from touching the ground.

• Keep the tree at a manageable height by pruning branches above your chosen height, using a ladder if needed.

TIPPING MANGO TREE FOR MORE FRUIT

Tipping is when you cut off the ends of branches to encourage more branching. Mangoes bloom at branch tips, so more branches = more flowers = more fruit.

• Let branches grow about 12–16 inches before tipping them again. 

• Do this 2–4 times a year to build a dense canopy.

• Stop tipping 4–5 months before the tree’s expected bloom time to allow it to rest. For many mango trees, this means stopping around August or September.

CUTTING OFF EXCESS WOOD

Mango trees need a high leaf-to-wood ratio for better fruiting. You can remove extra wood to allow more sunlight and airflow into the canopy.

Use a pruning saw to cut out large, unnecessary branches.

Don’t worry about creating a hole in the canopy—new branches will fill it within 1–2 seasons.

DON’T cut into the “collar” (the swollen area where a branch meets the trunk). If you do, you risk exposing your tree to infections. 

This leads us to the next important aspect of growing a mango tree. 

CHAPTER 6: Common Pests and Diseases

It’s always better to stop pests and diseases before they start by regularly inspecting your plant. But if your mango tree gets affected, you must know how to handle the situation.

Below, you’ll learn some of the common pests and diseases peculiar to mango trees and how to manage them. 

Brown Blotch

Brown blotch is a disease that leaves ugly marks on mango fruits and damages leaves. 

It reduces the plant’s ability to produce food through photosynthesis and can even lower fruit yield. In severe cases, the tree may weaken or die from secondary infections.

You can consider fungicidal and antibacterial treatments to treat brown blotch on mango trees. 

It’s also a sign to balance fertilization and avoid too much nitrogen. But first, you should prune to remove infected branches. Remember to sterilize pruning and harvesting tools.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose is a fungal disease that appears as dark, sunken spots on leaves, stems, or fruits. It loves warm, wet conditions and is especially troublesome in humid areas.

You can prevent Anthracnose by not overfeeding mango trees with nitrogen and pruning trees to improve airflow and sunlight exposure.

If Anthracnose appears, rotate between these treatments:

• High-quality copper fungicides (avoid copper soaps—they’re ineffective).

• Biological fungicides (non-copper based).

QUICK NOTE: 

• Don’t spray copper on open mango flowers, as it can sterilize the pollen.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew looks like a white or grayish dust on leaves, stems, and flowers. It blocks sunlight and stunts plant growth. 

This fungus thrives in cool, humid weather but no rainfall. It can ruin all the blooms on a mango tree, leading to no fruit that season.

To treat powdery mildew:

• Prune infected parts of the tree.

• Spray the tree with water to wash off the fungus naturally.

• Keep your tree nourished to boost its resistance.

QUICK NOTE: 

For prevention, you can use sulfur-based sprays. Remember, sulfur works only as a preventative—it won’t help with active infections.  

Start spraying once flower panicles appear and continue as directed on the product label. Don’t spray sulfur during high heat, strong winds, or rain.

Pros and Cons of Growing Mango Trees

As you consider growing mango trees, take note of the following benefits and drawbacks. 

Some of these ‘cons’ are not really a problem for many, but I consider it worth thinking about as you commit to growing the cultivar. 

PROS 

1. The fruits are tasty. Mangoes are sweet, juicy, and loved by many. So you’ll be satisfied with the result no matter what. 

2. Mango trees grow big and provide a cool spot to relax under. It’s a nice addition to any garden. 

3. Once grown, they can produce fruit for decades. So whatever investment you’re putting into growing mango trees, it’s worth it. 

4. If neutered well, the tree grows into something beautiful. This adorns your garden or backyard. 

CONS

1. Mango trees can take years to produce fruit. Depending on whether you grow seed or grafted cultivar, it ranges from 3 to 5 years before you see fruit. 

2. Depending on the cultivar, mango trees may also need a lot of room to grow because they can get very big.

3. Mangoes only grow during specific seasons, not year-round.

CHAPTER 7: Harvesting Mango Fruits and Storage

Mangoes on a wooden crate

Finally…

After a few years of nurturing your mango tree, it comes the time where the plant produces fruit. 

How do you know when to harvest? What do you look out for in a fruit before plucking? Let’s get into the full details. 

When Can You Harvest Mangoes?

How soon a mango tree produces fruit depends on how it is grown. Here’s what I mean: 

For grafted trees, a 1-gallon grafted mango tree usually starts bearing fruit in 2–3 years. But for seed-grown trees, it takes longer—around 5–8 years to bear fruit.

So how do you tell if mangoes are ready to pick? There’s no general answer. But many growers wrongly approach this. 

Mango ripeness varies depending on the type of mango (cultivar). Each variety has different signs of readiness. 

For example, some Indian mangoes are best picked before they ripen on the tree.

Other types can be left to ripen on the tree.

A common indicator for many varieties (but not all) is when the mango shows a yellowish tint that isn't caused by direct sunlight.

Proper Way to Pick Mangoes

Gently press the mango. A ripe mango will feel slightly soft, while an unripe one is firm.

You can use your hand to break the stem about 5 cm from the fruit or at the second joint. This stops sap (latex) from flowing onto the mango.

Alternatively, you can use clippers. Leave 0.5–1 cm of the stem attached to the fruit. Hold the mango stem-side down to prevent sap from dripping.

QUICK TIP:

• Use a picking pole with a net to catch the fruit. Don’t allow it to drop on the ground. 

Short-term and Long-term Storage for Mangoes

If the mango is ripe, you can store it in the fridge for up to 6 days. Keep unripe mangoes at room temperature in a container until they ripen.

If you want to store the mango for longer, you can cut the ripe mangoes into pieces, seal them in a ziplock bag, and freeze them. This keeps them viable for up to 6 months.

Final Thoughts: Where To Find Mango Trees For Sale 

When buying mango trees online, you want to pay attention to the variety and how it grows in your climate, the tree's size and health, the seller's reputation, and shipping details. 

At PrivacyShrubs.com, we take all this info into serious consideration. 

That’s why in our catalog, we offer and ship a wide range of plant species and cultivars to all locations throughout the contiguous United States. 

Visit our collection of mango trees for sale today to find the perfect mango tree that will make your landscape more beautiful and yield tasty mango fruit. 

[See how we ship your mango trees to your doorstep].